Fallas

Nothing is a better cure for insomnia that the realization that it is time to get up. I prefer to dedicate the initial precious moments of each day to pretending morning isn’t really happening and inventing new reasons not to rise.  I still wish they started later, but lately, I’ve had a good reason to welcome the new day.  

Celebrated in March, Fallas is a month-long Valencian tradition dating back to the Middle Ages.  We have heard of little else since we arrived and are so excited it is finally here. The joy of Fallas is waking each morning to a city under siege. Mascletás, which are very loud fireworks without the pretty light show, are set off officially every day at 2pm in Plaza de Ayuntamiento (City Square), and unofficially all the time everywhere else.  The five actual days of Fallas, March 15-19, are a continuous party, and each day starts with drums and firecrackers at 8am. The week culminates with the torching of giant wooden and paiper maché statues depicting various cultural and political icons that have taken all year to make. I love that Valencia celebrates its peaceful heritage with ear-splitting mini-bombs and honors its community and laborious efforts by burning them down.  It’s a paradoxical celebration by people who clearly have too much time on their hands. We fit right in.

I cannot adequately convey the extent of the new daily excitement.  It is a like a war zone with children visible though the smoke crying for the noise of the firecrackers, and traffic rerouted because of the crowds and churro stands. Spontaneous explosions make your bones vibrate and test your stop, drop and roll reflexes. The battle for Valencia between the Moors and Christians continues via parades, as people of all ages fight for front row seating in the cafés. For most there is anticipation in the air, while for others escape routes are being planned. OK, maybe I’m being a little dramatic, but it is hard to sleep.

After a sleepless night of Fallas celebrations, the best part of waking up is going back to bed after you pee. I hope that I can discern my alarm from the ringing in my ears.  They say that you need 8 hours of sleep each night.  I don’t know about that, but I do know that the perfect amount for me is just 5 minutes more…

Falla

Mascletá in city square